“My goodness. Are you really tourists from England?” asks a middle-aged Italian woman with a theatrical throw of her arms in the emptiness of one of the city’s best-loved pizzerias.As we nod our nervous confirmation – fearing this may be a prelude to a dressing down for having come to Italy in the middle of a pandemic – she breaks into a broad grin and declares: “Then welcome to Florence. We must roll out the red carpet for you.”Like every scene in this strangest of summers, our reception at a…